For years, I loved the idea of companion planting, succession planting, and crop rotation, but actually putting them into practice felt intimidating and overly complicated. Eventually, I started trying small changes here and there, and to my surprise, even simple adjustments made a big difference.
These three classic gardening methods, companion planting, succession planting, and crop rotation, are powerful tools to help you grow healthier plants, increase your harvest, and keep your garden thriving season after season.
While these methods all work well to improve your soil over time, it’s worth starting with a soil test kit before you start to get a sense of your overal soil health. This can help address any obvious problems.
Let’s take a closer look at how each one of these methods works and how you can easily weave them into your own garden routine.
Contents
Section 1: Companion Planting
Companion planting is the practice of growing certain plants together to help them thrive, whether by repelling pests, improving growth, or enhancing flavor. It’s part science and part experimentation, and what works best can vary depending on your garden’s unique conditions. Using a companion planting chart is a great starting point, but keeping your own records of what succeeds in your zone and soil will make your efforts even more effective. I like to focus on a few key companion pairings and then make small adjustments each year based on what I observe in my garden.
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Here are the 5 basic ideas to keep in mind:
1. Be Aware of Plant Families
Plants in the same family often attract the same pests and diseases, so it’s best to avoid grouping them together. For example, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are all nightshades and can attract shared pests like aphids and hornworms. Instead, pair them with plants from other families—like basil—which not only helps deter pests but can also enhance tomato flavor.
2. Use Plants as Natural Pest Repellents
Some plants naturally ward off insects thanks to their scent or chemical compounds. Marigolds, for instance, help deter nematodes and aphids, while garlic and onions repel pests like cabbage worms and spider mites. Nasturtiums make great “trap crops,” drawing aphids away from your more valuable plants.
3. Mix Fast-Growers with Slow-Growers
Combining quick-maturing crops with slower ones helps you make the most of your garden space and can also shade the soil to reduce weeds. Try planting radishes or lettuce between young tomato or broccoli plants—by the time the larger plants need space, the smaller ones are ready to harvest.
4. Avoid Plants That Inhibit Each Other’s Growth
Some plants release chemicals that can stunt the growth of others nearby. Fennel is notorious for this and is best grown on its own. Similarly, black walnut trees produce juglone, a compound that’s toxic to many vegetables, including tomatoes and potatoes.
5. Match Soil and Light Needs
Pair plants with similar growing requirements so one doesn’t outcompete the other for nutrients, light, or water. The classic “Three Sisters” combination—corn, beans, and squash—is a perfect example: corn provides support for beans, beans fix nitrogen for the soil, and squash shades the ground to suppress weeds. On the other hand, avoid pairing water-loving plants like cucumbers and melons with drought-tolerant ones like rosemary.
Section 2: Succession Planting
Succession planting is the practice of sowing new crops in the same space throughout the season so your garden beds are always producing. You can do this in a few ways. Try planting the same crop at staggered intervals—for example, sowing lettuce every 2–3 weeks ensures a continuous harvest. Or rotate different crops one after another—start with spring radishes, follow with summer bush beans, and finish the season with a fall crop like spinach. You can also interplant fast growers with slow growers, such as tucking arugula or radishes between tomato or pepper plants early in the season. The key to success is timing: when one crop is finished, plant another that still has time to mature before frost. Knowing your frost dates, tracking maturity times, and keeping a simple planting calendar will make the process much easier. Succession planting tends to work best in row or block-style gardens, while it can be trickier to manage in a tight square-foot layout.
Section 3: Crop Rotation
Crop rotation is the practice of changing where you plant specific crops each year to keep your soil healthy and minimize pest and disease problems. The idea is simple: different plants draw and return different nutrients to the soil, so rotating them helps maintain balance and prevent depletion. A good rule of thumb is to rotate by plant families—avoid planting crops from the same family (like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants) in the same bed for at least two to three years.
You can think of crops in general groups: heavy feeders like tomatoes, corn, and squash benefit from following legumes such as beans and peas, which naturally add nitrogen to the soil. Root crops like carrots, onions, and beets prefer lighter soil and fit well after nutrient-hungry plants, while leafy greens such as lettuce, kale, and spinach are light feeders and easy to fit in between rotations.
To keep it simple, make a quick sketch or map of your garden each year to track what was planted where. Over time, you’ll develop a rotation system that strengthens your soil and reduces pest buildup. Personally, my main goal with crop rotation is to keep heavy feeders moving around and avoid recurring pest issues—like shifting where I grow potatoes each season to stay ahead of the bugs.
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How to Use all 3 Methods – a Plan for 4 Beds
Divide Your Garden by Function (Crop Rotation Base)
Start by assigning each raised bed to one of four rotation categories. These are based on how each plant family uses or restores soil nutrients:
This rotation prevents soil depletion and reduces disease build-up.
Layer in Companion Planting
Within each bed, use strategic pairings to boost growth and reduce pests:
- Leafy Greens Bed (e.g., kale, lettuce, spinach):
Add onions or chives to deter aphids and slugs. Interplant with marigolds or nasturtiums for pest control. - Root Crop Bed (e.g., carrots, beets):
Pair radishes with carrots—radishes loosen soil and harvest quickly. Add rosemary or sage nearby to deter carrot flies. - Fruit Crop Bed (e.g., tomatoes, peppers):
Plant basil with tomatoes (enhances flavor and repels pests). Add borage to attract pollinators. Include marigolds for nematode control. - Legume Bed (e.g., peas, beans):
Pair beans with corn for vertical support. Add cucumbers as a low, spreading companion. Include dill or nasturtiums nearby to attract beneficial insects.
Step 3: Add Succession Planting
Stagger plantings within each bed to ensure a continuous harvest:
- Leafy Greens:
Sow lettuce/spinach every 2–3 weeks from early spring to early summer. Replant with fall-hardy greens after midsummer. - Root Crops:
Start with radishes and baby carrots in early spring. After harvest, replant with beets or a second round of carrots. - Fruit Crops:
Interplant quick growers like arugula or lettuce between young tomato or pepper transplants. They’ll mature before fruit crops spread. - Legumes:
Plant bush beans in early summer, then follow with peas for a late summer/fall crop. In some zones, you can sneak in a late planting of spinach after beans are pulled.
🌿Tips to Make This Work Year After Year
- Create a yearly planting chart: Note what you plant where so you can rotate effectively.
- Use a companion planting reference: Post it in your garden shed or print it for easy reference.
- Rebuild soil naturally: After heavy-feeding crops (like tomatoes), rotate in legumes to restore nitrogen.
- Be flexible: If a crop fails or harvests early, have seeds or seedlings ready for a quick replant.
Just straight up homesteading ideas sent directly to you.